San Diego: Surfing, Ceviche & SoCal Nostalgia

San Diego is a place that simultaneously comforts you with a welcoming SoCal vibe and intrigues you with its many layers of diverse culture. Drenched in sun yearound and nestled along the coast between green hills, steep golden bluffs and bluest blue ocean, it’s truly tough to have a bad time.

Skip SeaWorld and stare at the sea for long enough (like 5 minutes) -- you’ll surely discover pods of dolphins playing in the surf, sea lions bobbing around and even a whale showing off; and while the water isn’t totally toasty, a rented wetsuit sets you up to get closer to the action. Snorkeling/SCUBA, kayaking, stand up paddle boarding, surfing -- the amount of water-logged activities you can rack up is impressive for a Continental US destination.

Then there’s the architecture: a mix of 1950s coastal Americana that Mad Men seemed to satirize (but actually nailed) and delightful Spanish Mission style homes complete with beige stucco, burgundy adobe shingles and decorative cacti. Murals and street art abound and ground you in the present despite these otherwise nostalgic surroundings.

Being steps from Mexico and ocean-adjacent, San Diego’s fish tacos are as ubiquitous as they are varied. “Baja” means a delicate fry of strips of flaky white fish piled inside a pliable corn tortilla and buried in shaved cabbage and salsa. From the careful masa sourcing of Galaxy Tacos to the humble parking lot varietal served at La 57 wrapped in foil -- there really is no concrete construction that stands as supreme. Grilled fish also holds its own as the unadulterated protein option at most spots, providing a necessary balancing act to follow the Baja beohemiths. Ceviche is another must, where chopped shrimp and fish gets freshly pickled in acidic lime juice and served either alongside—or on top of—a crispy tostada. Oscar’s take was a revelatory experience, where bits of tangy, splintered shrimp swam in a bright marinade and sat heaped in an unassuming styrofoam cup. It’s the kind of place that could make a person re-think their life decisions, sell it all and move down the coast for a life of surfing and fish eating.

But beyond the fish taco and ceviche shacks, there’s a creative fine dining scene hallmarked by impressively high budgets and modern architectural design. Many of these monoliths feature indoor-meets-alfresco layouts with high ceilings and big windows that open onto chic patios. The menus are a coastal spin on New American, with raw bars, an undercurrent of “fusion,” and a mishmash of classy ingredients plated elegantly and primed for Instagramming. These are places for seeing and being seen, a slightly bizarre counterbalance to the unpretentious vibe that San Diego otherwise exudes.

Lubricated by warm days and cool food, creativity abounds. Between microbreweries, small batch coffee roasters, surfboard shapers and canvas painters, local artisans create a sense of place that is uniquely San Diego and served up for visitors to indulge in.

From posh party scenes to sleepy seaside hamlets, from student body to surfer bodies, from roadside tacos to rooftop sunsets, I have only scratched the surface of this place and am already craving more. See you next time, San Diego!

Itinerary:

Day 0

Drive in from Los Angeles after work and catch a late-night meal at Yakitori Hino, an industry favorite spot with skewers of grilled meat and vegetables that rivaled our trip to Japan.

Day 1

Grab breakfast at Wayfarer Bread & Pastry, a charming La Jolla bakery with Bay Area-level fare. Bring the haul to Calumet Park a short walk away and dig in alongside landscape photographers in a residential neighborhood.
Drive up to Torrey Pines Gliderport, the jumping-off point for hang gliders and the trailhead for the long hike down to Black’s Beach. We schlepped our surfboards down the cliffs, but the trip is worth it even if that’s not your thing. Bring a bathing suit, or don’t, since this is a nude beach! The locals were a bit territorial of the surf, but that was fine because they were DOLPHINS!
Sneak in happy hour at Galaxy Taco, a casual restaurant with a “masa program” and $7 margaritas if you time it right (3pm-6pm).
Dinner at Fort Oak, a dreamy New American restaurant located inside a refurbished 1950s luxury car showroom. We sat on the heated patio, ate oysters, steak tartare, and pasta. Perfection.

Day 2

Early start at La Jolla Kayak with a fun and informative kayak tour of the coast. On calm days they’ll take you inside the famed caves, but the waves were massive so we admired them from afar with our bubbly fact-spewing guide.
Visit San Diego’s Little Italy Farmers Market and admire the stalls filled with local produce and crafts.
Walk down to Bird Rock Coffee Roasters for a souvenir of locally roasted beans. Each bag comes with a free cup of drip coffee or cold brew. Take a breather!
Head over to the Gaslamp District for people watching and architecture admiring.
Venture into residential South Park for dinner at The Rose, a natural wine bar with flatbreads, crudos, bravas, and plenty of impressive and fun wines in an unpretentious setting. Grab a bottle to go for Day 3’s Second Dinner.

Day 3

Morning surf sesh at Scripps Beach! Boards can easily be rented at one of the many shops along the beach. La Jolla Kayak will hook you up! There’s plenty of free parking nearby too.
Brunch back at Galaxy Taco (it was that good). If Bloody Marys, Huevos Rancheros, and tropical fruit isn’t the perfect post-surf meal, I don’t know what is.
Drive up north to Torrey Pines State Reserve. Skip the pricey parking lot and park along the beach on North Torrey Pines Road. Walk up the mountain’s backside and pick a few trails to explore (Guy Flemming Trail was the fave). This is a moderate hike but the dramatic coastline views, dolphin watching, and photo ops are worth it.
Recharge with some sunbathing and walking at Del Mar Beach, a classic SoCal beach with miles of waves, sandcastles, and umbrellas. Dog friendly!
Catch the sunset at George’s At The Cove in La Jolla, a swanky old school rooftop restaurant with stunning views. Cocktails and calamari for the win!
Stock up on tacos and ceviche at Oscar’s. Take it to go and enjoy at “home” with an extra chilly orange wine.

Day 4

Make a pit stop at the La 57 food truck for pre-road trip fuel. Order the Baja fish tacos and ask for some gratis fish stew while you wait.
Walk it off and explore the neighborhood. Do a bit of shopping at Gold Leaf - the ultimate gift shop (gifts for yourself count!), Thread + Seed - a cute women’s clothing boutique, Communal - a coffee trailer meets jewelry store, and Vinyl Junkies - a very cool new and used record shop.
Snag some car snacks at 7-Eleven and hit the road!